America's Best Rhone Style White Wines: 11th Annual Rhone Rangers Tasting Reviewed
By: Suzanne Reifers & Alfred Judd
The
same advantages of blending apply to American white Rhone wines. With
careful blending, a winemaker can offer a final product that is more
elegant and complex and better balanced than the individual varietals
themselves. While the marketing of such wines is a challenge (most
restaurants don’t know how to list them and many retailers don’t where
to place them), the rewards are worth the challenges. Blends of white
Rhone varietals are very food-friendly and complement a wide range of
dishes popular in America. Thus, we were very pleased to find about 34
white Rhone blends at the Rhone Rangers tasting this year compared to
about only 20 last year.
We couldn’t try all of them, but of those we did taste, we found 8 that we highly recommend.
An unusual white blend
The
most unusual of these was the 2007 Edmunds St. John Heart of Gold
bottling, a blend of 54% Grenache Blanc and 46% Vermentino from Ron
Mansfield’s vineyard in El Dorado County. The resulting blend had an
appealing and complex fruit flavor with a very good acid level. It was
crisp and delicious. Vermentino (best known from its plantings in
Corsica, Sardinia and the Ligurian coast) is known in the Rhone as
Rolle. Like Grenache Blanc, Vermentino was brought to America recently
by Tablas Creek. Unfortunately, the Edmunds St. John Heart of Gold
cuvee was made in a tiny quantity, so it will be next to impossible to
find. But this blend teaches a lesson that Grenache Blanc and
Vermentino complement each other nicely.
White blends from the Sierra Foothills
We
found four more white blends from the Sierra foothills worth noting.
From a producer we have come to hold in high regard is the 2006 Holly’s
Hill Vineyards Patriarche Blanc ($22) from El Dorado County. This blend
of Roussanne and Viognier is rich and well balanced with a long finish.
The 2006 Mount Aukum Winery “4 of a Kind” ($24) is a blend of Grenache
Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier with attractive, nuanced
flavors. The 2006 David Girard Coeur du Terroir Blanc ($22) from El
Dorado County is an appealing blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Rolle
(also called Vermentino, see above), Marsanne and Viognier with a
lengthy finish. More forward than the previous examples, the 2006
Domaine de la Terre Rouge Enigma ($24) from a single Sierra Foothills
vineyard shows citrus and good acid. It would be a good match for more
strongly flavored food. We have known past vintages of this Marsanne,
Viognier and Roussanne blend to pair well with lots of garlic.
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